Esteli, Nicaragua

The 3.5 hour bus ride between Jinotega and Esteli was even more beautiful than the one between Matagalpa and Jinotega.  Ranchlands, distant mountains, stone fences running in lines up and down.  I contemplated the time and effort it must have taken to make those fences, gathering, transporting and placing each rock.  It was hard to … Continue reading Esteli, Nicaragua


Jinotega, Nicaragua

I operate mostly by feel when I travel.  I can usually tell of a place within about an hour of walking around if it is going to be someplace I want to stay, and I could tell within an hour that I wasn't going to be long for Jinotega.  In setting it was quite similar … Continue reading Jinotega, Nicaragua

Matagalpa, Nicaragua

I woke up my first morning at the El Castillo hotel in Matagalpa to no running water.  The hotel apologized, said the water came and went, that it was a Matagalpa issue,  pointing to the 50 gallon barrel of purified water they kept on hand, and handed me a bucket of water.  So it was … Continue reading Matagalpa, Nicaragua

Leon, Nicaragua

Leon was what I needed to wash the taste of Granada from my mouth. From Granada, I took a minibus to Managua, where I connected to another minibus to Leon.  It took about three hours and cost about $2.50, it was air-conditioned, and it beat a chicken bus. From the bus station, I took a … Continue reading Leon, Nicaragua

Granada, Nicaragua

Granada didn't suit me.  It's an old colonial town, so on it's face, it has a great deal of appeal.  The Parque Central is lovely, as is the cathedral, and the streets are lined with brightly painted buildings. Volcan Mombacho looms, always there to orient yourself. But the streets are full of tourists acting like … Continue reading Granada, Nicaragua

Isla de Ometepe

There are easier ways of getting to Isla de Ometepe than an eleven-hour ferry ride that arrives after midnight. There's one other way; taking a one-hour ferry from San Jorge, 1.5 hours from the capital of Nicaragua or the border with Costa Rica. Sometimes I like to make things hard for myself.  There was an … Continue reading Isla de Ometepe

This is what a $3 a night room in Nicaragua looks like

My original hotel choice fell through when I  couldn't find it in this small place.  It wasn't late, so I wasn't panicked, but I wanted to put an end to a long day of buses, boats and border crossing, so I went in a place that I saw some other backpackers go.I asked if they … Continue reading This is what a $3 a night room in Nicaragua looks like