Santa Rosa de Copan and Gracias, Honduras

I didn't need a reminder that I am thirty-nine years old, but spending the previous day on buses gave me one anyways.  I woke up, and my hips were sore, my back was sore.  My head and stomach were sore from midnight hotdogs and aquardiente.  I was mentally and physically drained. I did some half-assed … Continue reading Santa Rosa de Copan and Gracias, Honduras


Four buses, two taxis and thirteen hours; El Salvador to Honduras

The plan was to be in Santa Rosa de Copan, Hondurans by 7pm.  I would leave Juayua, El Salvador at 9am for Santa Ana, arriving at 10am to catch a 10:30am connection to Metapan, arriving at 11:45am for a noon connection to El Poy at the border, arriving at 3pm. From El Poy, after exiting … Continue reading Four buses, two taxis and thirteen hours; El Salvador to Honduras

Juayua, El Salvador

The 6:30am bus from El Tunco to Sonsonate, where I would connect for Juayua (Why-OOH-ah) was the first time I was separated from my bag.  The ayudante took it from me as I boarded through the rear emergency exit and placed it behind the last row of seats.  I took a seat several rows up … Continue reading Juayua, El Salvador


Yesterday, (Monday, May 12)the fiftieth day of my trip, halfway home, a trip the purpose of which was to rapidly dislocate myself from the comfort of home, a place I know, to someplace faraway, foreign, unfamiliar, and make my way slowly back, was appropriately spent in four buses and two taxis for twelve hours getting … Continue reading Halfway

A lull in Suchitoto and El Tunco

Suchitoto was boring.  It was a nice enough colonial town that apparently came to life on weekends with art galleries, a place that San Salvadorans escaped to from the heat and madness of the city.  But I was there on a Monday, and it was dead.  It felt like a smaller Granada without all the … Continue reading A lull in Suchitoto and El Tunco

TicaBus to El Salvador

It was hard getting out of bed at 5am again.  My room shared a bathroom, one of those that had a door accessing it from each room, with a four bed dorm, occupied by two Argentine couples, who returned late from partying.  I'm not sure if they realized that someone was sleeping on the other … Continue reading TicaBus to El Salvador

Esteli, Nicaragua

The 3.5 hour bus ride between Jinotega and Esteli was even more beautiful than the one between Matagalpa and Jinotega.  Ranchlands, distant mountains, stone fences running in lines up and down.  I contemplated the time and effort it must have taken to make those fences, gathering, transporting and placing each rock.  It was hard to … Continue reading Esteli, Nicaragua

Jinotega, Nicaragua

I operate mostly by feel when I travel.  I can usually tell of a place within about an hour of walking around if it is going to be someplace I want to stay, and I could tell within an hour that I wasn't going to be long for Jinotega.  In setting it was quite similar … Continue reading Jinotega, Nicaragua